Wednesday, July 9, 2014

Sat July 5

Today we woke up and Jan suggested that we go quickly to Eshaness since it was supposed to rain the rest of the day and tomorrow. So we got ready and headed out in Paul's car. We didn't take time to have breakfast...just took off for the amazing cliffs on the west side of Shetland. Here are the photos:

This photo is actually before we got to Eshaness...it's the drongs.


This one is called "drinking horse" or something like that.


Here is Sara as we're walking to the cliffs of Eshaness:













Check out the people on the large cliff...this gives you an idea of size.





We were close to the edge, but not too close.









































We had great timing today...so glad we didn't stop for breakfast yet. This is what pulled up in the parking area as we were leaving:


Then this happened...so we were glad to just get away from there!





We saw wild Shetland ponies on the way back.


When we stopped for them they came right up to the car windows. This one was on my side. As he started to stick his head in the window, I quickly closed the window, as they can bite...especially when they are mad that you don't have food for them!


Here's the one on Sara's side:


We stopped for breakfast in Braewick. Here was the view as we drank tea and had breakfast:



We worked in the charity shop today. Not much traffic but one family bought 55 pounds worth of things...so Jan was very pleased
sara baked a corgette cake

Sara went upstairs to the kitchen a bit early to bake their infamous recipe of courgette (zuchinni) cake. It was amazing!





Location:Eshaness

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Tuesday July 8 - heading home


Woke up feeling much better...the water was way calmer. Had our breakfast on the ferry then debarked and took the shuttle bus to the airport in Aberdeen. Got on the first leg of our flight...Aberdeen to Heathrow in London.

At Heathrow, we walked a TON and after 3 checkpoint Charlie clearances (one where I got singled out again and frisked....what the hell?? do I look like a freakin' terrorist???? Then we were told we needed to go to another terminal and it would take 20 minutes to walk it. I said I needed to take one of those carts to get there so they got a cart and whisked us off the 2 miles it would have been to walk it. We would have never made our flight on time. This airport is really awful...unless you have 3-4 hours to spare and you are willing to walk several miles.

So right now we are on the plane trying to stay awake for a bit. We get in tonight around 10:00...but it will be a 30 hour day for us today.

Update...we survived the long flight from London to Chicago. Now we are in United hell...our flight has been delayed twice (typical United stuff). We were to get into Lincoln at 10:00...then 10:45...then 12:10. Remind me to never take United ever again...it's the worst! So here we are at O'Hare and to us, it's 3:00 AM...and we're still waiting for a firm confirmation on our flight.

Well, we are definitely in United Airline Hell...the flight that had been delayed that we were waiting to arrive from Pittsburgh....arrived. The passengers got off, the pilot got off. Then our flight was delayed because the pilot had maxed out on hours of flying time. So since they couldn't find a pilot at 11:00 at night, they cancelled our flight and sent all of us down to United service desk. Luckily Sara is very wise about getting hosed by United so as we walked the long walk to the United desk, Sara got on the phone...got thru to a person...and told them what had happened. They needed to have our ticket number so Sara read it off...it was D507FR...or whatever. The person at United got the D507 but thought the F was S. She said "Is that S as in Sam?" and the only funny part of the entire evening was when Sara said "No, it's F as in F....United"...that truly was the only laughable moment. It was just meant to be.

So she got us booked on an 8:15 AM flight that gets into Lincoln at 9:45. They tried to tell Sara that it was weather related so they wouldn't have to pay for our hotel, but Sara said that was a crock. At the counter they gave us vouchers to the airport La Quinta and vouchers for breakfast tomorrow...oh...and a paper bag with a toothbrush & shampoo & shoe shine polish ....because guess what....we couldn't get our luggage back. So we will be cranky AND smelly tomorrow morning and wearing the same clothes we've been wearing since leaving Shetland on the ferry.

We had purchased a luggage cart earlier because of the distances that we had to walk...so I just kept the cart as we walked out of the terminal looking for the shuttle to the La Quinta. We had to walk several blocks to find the bus stop...and I just kept pushing the cart.

The driver of the shuttle drove like a bat out of hell going 70 MPH in a 45 MPH zone. Got to the hotel...it took 15 or so minutes to get to the hotel. It's pretty much a crap hotel...the room smelled smokey. We took a shower and were in bed about 12:30 AM. Our wake up call will be 3:30 AM...so a whopping 3 hours of sleep. Went out like a light.

Location:over the pond

Monday, July 7, 2014

Monday July 7 - Happy Birthday, Sara!

I had found (of all things) down in the charity shop, a package of balloons with "30" on them...and Sara turns 30 today. So I gave them to Jan last night and she was going to have Pete blow them up this morning and have them in the kitchen to surprise Sara. Mission accomplished!






We had a very leisurely breakfast of the leftover bread pudding and some fancy chocolate muffins they had bought. We had a nice visit and was a great way to end our stay. They had presents for Sara for her birthday...a really neat book of wrapping paper...very unique, a little hanging decoration of hearts, and a canvas plant holder...all really nice. They gave me a lace shoulder shawl/collar made in the Shetland lace style. This is amazingly intricate knitting made from local Shetland sheep. For this particular kind of lace work, they get this wool not from the usual way they shear sheep, but rather from the front of the chest of the sheep...and they don't shear it...it is so fine that it just pulls off in tufts....then they spin the wool and knit it. The color of it is all natural...in Shetland they call this colors "moorit". It's absolutely beautiful!

Keep in mind that this is knitted...not crocheted:






I took some final photos of their house just before hopping into the car for Jan to drive us to Lerwick where we will catch the ferry.


Their house is from the white on the left to the white on the right. The white building on the left is the seal house that is being retiled. The similar but larger white building on the right is the bod and the charity shop and Paul's living quarters on the upper level. The rest if the building...the brown part that is L shaped ... is the main part of the house. On the left side of the brown house are 2 dormer type windows....the one on the far left was the bedroom where we stayed. below that is a dining room that is not used now. The L part on the right is another kitchen that can be used, but wasn't while we were there. In the middle of the L shaped part is the courtyard with lots of plants and herbs.
The mustard brown building above is the St. Magnus Bay Hotel.











Jan needed to stop at the co-op grocery store in Lerwick. How interesting that the cashiers get to sit down while ringing people up!


Next we stopped at another food supply store for Jan to stock up. She shops in Lerwick once a month so she really loads up with good healthy food. She found us a CD of a local fiddling group and she gave that to us...so nice!

We then went for lunch at a little cafe and had soup and a pannini sandwich. Jan dropped us off at the ferry and sadly we said goodbye. What an experience this has all been.

If I had to condense this all down into a few thoughts about Shetland overall...it would be an amazing energy here of connectedness and also of the totally unbelievable resourcefulness of everyone we have met on the islands. These people are hard working, they waste nothing...everything get puts to use....even the wool that is stuck to the fences out in the open...they gather that and spin it for a certain type of knitting. They are deeply rooted to the earth, no one here is pretentious or phony...they just are who they are.

The vastness of the land here and the openness are part of the character of the people...giving a great sense of freedom and independence...and self-sufficiency. There is very little possesiveness....everything is shared in a very communal manner and everyone pitches in for others when needed. They have respect for nature and weather and may comment on it, but don't complain. This place is not for sissies...it's a very hard life with isolation and desolation at every step. It has been one whale of a learning experience.


So off we went to board the ferry...and since it was Sara's birthday...we were going to be "merry on the ferry!" We boarded and checked into our little room, dropped our things off and went up to the upper deck to see the port as we were pulling out. We got two local Valhalla beers to toast to Sara as we left port.













After that we paid extra to be allowed access to the fancy lounge and we each ordered a scotch on the rocks. We had already paid for a full 3 course meal in celebration of Sara's birthday....so we ordered the salmon dinner and it was delicious. Sara enjoyed the scotch, but not me...I did take a sip of mine...but that was my limit (Sara was happy to finish off mine!)....besides that, it was a bit rough on the sea and my stomach wasn't doing great.




Did I tell you that the North Sea is way more rough on the northern part of the trip than it is on the southern one. When we first got here 3 weeks ago and took the ferry, we didn't notice it because we were asleep during the rough sea time, but this time, on the return trip, the sea was quite a bit worse. We had to hold on to rails to get back to the cabin and it was a bit touch and go (with barf bags close at hand!) for several hours. It helped to lay down and block the view and the light from our eyes. After a few hours, things settled down.....both the sea and our stomachs.

Here's the last photo of simmer dim: It was taken through our port window in our cabin...so there are some streaks on the window. I couldn't make it up to the deck at that time as I was not feeling well at all.










It actually was a bit dark at one point during the night.

Location:Hillswick and leaving the island

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Sunday July 6 - our last full day here

We cleaned the bod (bode) today....the back part ....as much as we could. It should help Jan get into some deeper cleaning when she has time.

I worked the charity shop from 2-5 and cleaned out the book shelves...she has so many books for sale....I'd guess around 1,000 or so. Sara helped for a bit, too, and we really tidied up the books good!

A couple came in to the charity shop that we had seen in Eshaness (I'm sure this is no surprise to you anymore either!).

The young man who rescued Marley came in today to see him. He has been following Marley's progress and was very excited to see him. It was an amazing thing to do...to save Marley. You see, he is a salmon fisherman and works on a barge at the salmon farms here. Most salmon fisherman are not friends with the seals. The seals, by their nature, go to the salmon farms and try to eat the salmon. The fisherman guarding the seals react by shooting the seals. It's been a problem here. So for this young man and his 2 friends to rescue the seal and call Jan and Pete, is very encouraging and hopeful to see.

Did some laundry today and hung some of if outside to dry and hung the rest inside the kitchen on a rack in the ceiling...operated on a pulley. The heat of the Rayburn (peat burning stove) is what dries it...and it makes the clothes smell amazing!






Do you see the rope on the right side? Well, you unhook it and let the rack come down, then you load the clothes on and raise the rack back up.


Here's another detail of the Rayburn:


and the kitchen sink where many dishes are cleaned



Jan fixed a feast for our last dinner here...this beautiful salad from the garden...



and this zucchini lasagna...that was amazing! We celebrated our time spent here over dinner. They have been so nice!





Location:Hillswick